What are Wagasa? 7 Things to Know About Japanese Umbrellas

by David McElhinney | CRAFT

Wagasa (和傘), literally Japanese umbrellas, are the bamboo and paper parasols you may have seen protecting middle-aged lords and their retinues in Japanese period dramas or being clasped by geisha in ukiyo-e woodblock prints!

First introduced to Japan from China during the Heian Period (794-1185), wagasa are an instantly recognizable element of traditional Japanese art and culture. Wagasa were initially used to shield the upper classes from sunlight and those ever-present, ever-meddling evil spirits – which is why they were often red, a spiritually significant color. But the purpose and culture of wagasa slowly morphed and adapted over the subsequent millennium resulting in the beautiful works of art we see today.

What makes Japanese wagasa so special, and where you can buy wagasa umbrellas for yourself?

1. What are Wagasa?

The first wagasa were tall canopy-like parasols constructed with bamboo and washi paper (What is Japanese Washi Paper?). They symbolized power and superiority through their size and artistic renderings; after arriving in Japan around the 10th century, only the cream of the feudal crop was permitted to use them.

Prior to at least the 14th century, wagasa were rigid and offered little protection from the abundant early summer rainfall. Around this time wagasa craftsmen began waterproofing the canopies with waxes and vegetable oils, giving the umbrellas greater versatility across the seasons. By the 16th century, Japan’s artisans had also invented the technology to fold the wagasa – a similar design to the one eventually patented by Bradford E Philips, creator of the “working foldable umbrella”, several hundred years later in 1969.

Couple Under Umbrella in the Snow by Suzuki Harunobu, 18th Century

During the Edo Period (1603-1868), Japan entered a state of prolonged peace, substituting ongoing interstate bloodshed with nationwide cultural revolutions. Ukiyo-e prints, one of the most prevalent arts of the time, began to appear en masse, many of which depicted the citizenry shielding themselves from downpours and snowfall with wagasa umbrellas. This served as proof of how ubiquitous the wagasa had become across the country under Tokugawa rule. It was no longer a luxurious instrument consigned to the halls of the daimyo (feudal lords). Wagasa-making had turned into a bustling trade taken up by craftspeople and declassee samurai across Japan who made umbrellas to collectively boost the finances of their local provinces.

Beauty and Umbrella by Tomioka Eisen, 1902

As they became popularized throughout Edo, so too did versions of the wagasa become commoditized. This is perhaps most evident in the magnificent wagasa props seen in old kabuki plays and cha-no-yu tea ceremonies, or in the elegant parasols under which strutting geisha would glide along the machiya (old towns) of Kyoto and beyond.

2. What are the Defining Features of a Wagasa Japanese Umbrella?

Generally, there are three types of wagasa: ban-gasa, janome-gasa, hi-gasa. Each of these looks fairly similar to the untrained eye, yet they carry different functionalities. The ban-gasa is for “everyday” use. The janome-gasa, favored by Kyoto’s geisha, are light, dainty and easy to carry. The hi-gasa are used only for protection against the sun – or hi – and therefore are not waterproof. The production of the hi-gasa is a little different, yet all three styles contain many of the same components.

All wagasa umbrellas are defined by wide and flat washi paper canopies pulled taut over bamboo “skeleton ribs” (oya hone) which surmount a bamboo shaft. Peer a little closer and you’ll see the composite parts that create this overall shape. These include: the aforementioned rokuro, which allows the wagasa to open and close; the zukami, a small piece of paper covering the top or atama (head) of the rokuro; sho hone, or supporting ribs, on the inner side of the wagasa; the etake (handle) which wraps around the shaft; and the ishitsuki, or reinforced tip of the handle.

3. How Are Japanese Wagasa Made?

Making wagasa is widely regarded as one of Japan’s most painstaking crafts. Even the most skilled artisans can take several months to complete the 100-step process. The traditional method requires bamboo, string, washi paper, lacquer, vegetable oil, and a harder wood for the rokuro. Here’s a highly condensed version of the process:

The frame of the umbrella – including the ribs and shaft – is constructed with bamboo. Through small holes in the ribs, the frame is connected to the upper rokuro, where the ends of the ribs converge, and the lower rokuro which connects the ribs and shaft on the inner side of the canopy. This process of connecting three of the most integral components of the wagasa is incredibly finnicky and requires a steady-as-rock hand. One small misstep here could throw the entire wagasa shape into disarray.

Nokigami, or sheets of washi paper, matching the rib-spans are then glued to both the inside and outside portions of the canopy with a strong adhesive. After the adhesive has dried, the washi paper is painted and lacquered to give it an original design and glossy sheen, before its coated with linseed or vegetable oil to ensure it’s waterproof. Finally, the wagasa is left out to dry – preferably in the sun – for up to 15 days before any final designs or artistic accoutrements are threaded onto the canopy.

4. Where are Japanese Umbrellas Made?

Kyoto, the Heian Period capital of Japan, is widely considered the earliest region to use wagasa umbrellas, or as they became known, Kyo-wagasa. Kyo-wagasa were an exercise in artistic austerity and minimalism, showcasing the elegance of the umbrella’s design through technique and fine materials, with little fanfare in the imagery or decorations.

© Kyoto Tsujikura, Wagasa Umbrellas in the Fall

In the years of peak production, which reached their zenith following the industrial revolution, tens of millions of wagasa were manufactured annually throughout Japan. In the 21st century, however, only the most belligerent tradespeople in a handful of former wagasa strongholds are keeping the tradition alive.

Between the Rains by Nishijima Katsuyuki, 1990s

Hiyoshiya, a small craft store in Kyoto, is one of the last remaining Kyo-wagasa shops in the old imperial capital. Now run by fifth-generation craftsman Kotaro Nishibori, Hiyoshiya continues to innovate on the style and technique of wagasa while simultaneously celebrating the original methods of construction. Tsujikura, also located in Kyoto, has been making Kyo-wagasa for over 330 years, and continues a healthy trade today.

To the east of Kyoto in Gifu Prefecture, an abundance of the correct raw materials for wagasa production ensured it became one of the craft’s heartlands. Simultaneously, under the auspices of the great – albeit a tad bloodthirsty – warlord Oda Nobunaga in the 1500s, Gifu’s central location helped it flourish as an economic and commercial nexus for the surrounding regions. Following the Matsudaira clan subsuming the local seat of power, wagasa became an important cultural asset in Gifu in the mid-17th century, which it then traded through the networks established by Nobunaga.

By the late 19th-century, Gifu produced 520,000 wagasa annually, before reaching a whopping 15 million per year in the 1950s – at which point there were around 600 workshops operating in Gifu City alone. Today, only three remain, producing approximately 5,000 umbrellas a year – approximately 70% of national production. Furthermore, only one Gifu-based artisan, Kazuo Nagaya, has the ability to make the component which opens and closes the umbrella. This unique contraption, the rokuro, is typically made from the strong wood of the haiku-sounding Japanese snowball tree.

Today, the future of wagasa is shrouded in uncertainty: by the end of 2019, only 20 wagasa artisans remained in the entire country.

5. What Are Wagasa Used For?

Plastic convenience store umbrellas are a far more common sight in modern Japanese cities than old-school wagasa. However, in the traditional quarters of Gifu, Kyoto, or Kanazawa, you may spot kimono-clad wanderers or geiko (master geisha) clip-clopping along the flagstone streets with a traditional parasol in hand. See for example Gion Kyoto: 20 Must-See Highlights of the Geisha District.

The ban-gasa and janome-gasa are used by men and women, respectively, for traditional ceremonies or photoshoots, but are unlikely to be used for daily protection from the elements. The janome-gasa is also favored by geisha performers. The hi-gasa will likely replace the others if the sun is shining – though it’s more common among women.

Outside of Japan’s time capsule districts, you’re most likely to encounter wagasa in museums and the performing arts. This is especially so in kabuki plays, Japan’s most prominent traditional theatre style, which often have geisha characters amid the dramatis personae (What is Kabuki? 8 Things You Need to Know About Kabuki Theater).

6. Where Can I Buy an Authentic Japanese Wagasa Umbrella?

© Kyoto Tsujikura, Wagasa Umbrellas on Sale

If you want to buy a wagasa, Kyoto and Gifu are your go-to prefectures. But if you can’t get to Japan right now, these well-respected stores also provide online sales: Tsujikura, Hiyoshiya, Kasa Biyori.

7. How to Take Care of a Wagasa Umbrella?

To preserve the longevity of your wagasa it should be stored – untied and loose – in a dark and airy room or cupboard. It’s also best to ensure the wagasa has been thoroughly dried before storage. Moreover, though it may be counterintuitive, make sure you do not leave it out to dry in the sun, as this can bleach the colors of the washi canopy.

A wagasa is also difficult, perhaps impossible, to repair outside of Japan. So be sure to look after it well if you bring one back to your country of residence. In the event you damage it in Japan you can probably get it fixed by an artisan, unless one of the ribs has completely snapped at which point it’s time for a new one. Just beware, any repairs will come at a premium and are often more expensive than a brand-new wagasa!